Sunday, 26 April 2009

Croissants: recipe

Today, especially for Dr. Rouge-Gorge, a classic croissant recipe. Click here to see a photo post showing the various stages of croissant-making. Most of the process is contained therein, save for the quantities themselves. A few elaborations below.

For the détrempe

55g fresh baker's yeast (or 40g if rising overnight, see notes below)
500g white bread flour
500g ordinary plain flour
150g butter, melted
120g sugar
25g salt
590g whole milk

For the beurrage

500g butter

Notes on ingredients

We never work with dried/easy-blend yeast so I don't want to give advice on how to go about it. It should be possible to substitute easy-blend yeast without too much hassle and no doubt some noggin has written about it on the Internet elsewhere. You could always go to your local baker's and ask for some yeast, but they might be a bit peeved!

If preparing the dough the night before, use 40g.

The bread flour is used because it will provide more gluten to the dough which will help it rise. However, to avoid overdoing it, ordinary flour makes up the other half.

I suggest weighing the ingredients directly into the bowl of your mixer in the order listed. This means the yeast will be covered by the flour to precent it drying out, and it won't come into contact with the salt which risks killing it.

As with the inverted puff pastry, I would recommend shooting with a half quantity. I would also strongly recommend getting the hang of puff pastry and all the rolling out before taking on the croissant dough. The croissant dough is quite a bit tougher on the rolling out front due to the higher levels of gluten.

Method

1. Slowly combine the ingredients in a mixer with the dough hook. Once combined, turn up the speed to medium until the dough comes cleanly away from the sides of the bowl.

- You can hold some of the milk back and add it at the end on checking the consistency of the dough. Problem is, if you're on your own and not sure of your target texture, there's little point.

- You're probably a bit loopy if you want to do this by hand. I never have, but just follow your usual dough-working procedures... combine everything together at fingertips or with a scraper then turn out the dough and work until smooth and elastic.

2. Transfer to a plastic bowl covered with cling film and either leave at room temperature for 60-90mins, knock back then pop, still covered, into the fridge overnight or let rise for 45mins at 25°C, knock back, then spread on an oven tray (c.2cms thick) and leave covered in the fridge until well chilled.

- We use a proving chamber for these rising periods which helps control temperature. Domestic alternatives are stretching the scope of this little post but ideas include a turned off microwave or a polystyrene box, heated with a bowl of boiling water. Some people go with the airing cupboard -- but this risks being even too hot and drying out the dough.

3. In either case it is now time to move on to the beurrage. Whip the butter out of the fridge and soften it by walloping with a rolling pin in a an acrylic or silicon sheet. This gives you a chance to shape the butter into a square (c. 20 x 20cm for a half quantity) and to soften it while keeping it cold. Roll out the détrempe to c. 40 x 20cm and pop the butter on top.

- A crucial point is to seek the same texture between the butter and the détrempe. If they are significantly different, you risk marbling the pastry and not having distinct butter-détrempe layers. If the butter is too hard, bash it more with a rolling pin. If the dough is too soft, pop it back in the fridge/freezer for a bit.

4. Then you need to follow steps 2,3 and 4 here. Which amounts to a tour d'incorporation immediately followed by a tour double, resting until well chilled, a tour simple, resting until well chilled, then rolling out and chilling. Takes some time, especially without a blast chiller.

- Aiming for 50 x 60cm when finally rolled out (with a half quantity). It is easier if you cut the dough in half and do this in two stages. It is quite thin. You may well need to chill the dough during the process. The warmer the dough gets, the more elastic the gluten and the more frustrating the endeavour becomes.

5. Proceed as per the first croissant post here. The proving is done after the first glaze at 25-30°C. The proving space needs to be get humid to prevent a crust forming on the croissants. This is done with a bowl of boiling water in the proving space. It should take about 90mins.

- At each of the stages of fermentation it is hard to know how long to leave the dough the first few times you try. The classic rule is 'until the dough looks like it has nearly doubled in volume'. At this final stage you want the dough to be quite loose/baggy - so if you prod it gently, it doesn't spring back to its original shape.

- Glaze lovingly with beaten eggs. Most people say to add a pinch of salt since this helps break down the egg proteins - since we use liquid egg in the first place, no need.

6. After glazing for a second time, pop in the oven at 190°C and cook until golden. Transfer to drying rack &c.

PS Croissant making is not one of the easiest things to get off a blog. Regular readers will know about my early struggles and that was using professional equipment and with a teacher in the room. Further, I don't think I've been particularly eloquent and I've rather rushed it. Sorry. Still... any questions or doubts, pop me an email/comment.

Saturday, 25 April 2009

Welcome

Woke late then over-indulged in Fanny Craddock from the comfort of my bed. By the time I had got to the swimming pool via 4 patisseries for industrial research, I only had 20mins to bash out some lengths. So to make up I went to watch a film about swimming. The cinema was very slick -- just two days old. The film was pretty average.

Friday, 24 April 2009

Poirier

The fraisier is a real classic of french patisserie. It's a strawberry entremets with slices of strawberry visible all around the edge. Today we didn't make a fraisier. We did make a poirier which is the same thing made with pears. We'll be making a proper fraisier next week after today's practice.

I thought it might be interesting for some to see the layers going into an entremets. Here is the first layer, a Viennese biscuit, going into a ring lined with celluloid tape, sitting on a laminated paper circle. The word biscuit in patisserie refers to all kinds of sponges, too. The Viennese biscuit is soft and supple. It is imbibed with a Poire Williams flavoured syrup.


 The body of the entremets is a Poire Willims flavoured crème diplomate. Crème diplomate (lit. diplomat cream) is crème patissière lightened with whipped cream and lightly set with gelatin. A ring of the cream is piped onto the edge of the biscuit leaving a half-cm gap with the mould. The pear slices are inserted then the layer of cream is completed.


Then a layer of diced pears.


A touch more cream then a second layer of bisuit.


A final layer of cream and everything is smoothed over.


The entremets is blast chilled to ease the passage of a decorous layer of Italian meringue. The thin layer of meringue is patterned with the blade of a serrated knife and some swirls are piped round the edge. The meringue is singed, the inscription inscribed and a chocolate fan and miniature pear half are added.


Foil chimneys in our Berrichons. These are puff pastry cases filled with slices of potato sprinkled with parsley, onion and lardons. Once cooked, the tops are excised and a healthy spoonful of crème fraîche added. Very delish.


One of our quiches from the other day. It's a funny kind of regional quiche (can't remember the name) with far too much carrot for my taste. The pastry, here, has been blind baked but once the filling was added, the quiches were frozen raw. That is what you see here, hence the funny colours/textures.


(And here is that bitch of a test in all its glory.)

Thursday, 23 April 2009

Bugger

We never know when we are going to have tests on the theory of baking. The idea is that this will make us revise every night.

Sadly, I can't make myself function like that -- life's too short to sit at home reading about gelatine each evening -- but I generally revise a few chapters on those days a test is likely to fall.

Last night I toyed with the idea but thought sod it. Today we had the most vicious and horrible test yet.

I just managed to remember the minimum legal quantities of dry cocoa matter in dark and milk couverture, was lucky enough to guess the ingredients of baking powder (along with their respective roles) but could only manage "harvest", "grinding" and "putting in sacks" for the processing of flour. As for the absorption rates of starch and gluten -- didn't even bother guessing.

In the labo and feeling slightly better, we set about making a load of different quiches. We also finished our "Costa Rica" entremets from yesterday. From the bottom up: a layer of walnut biscuit, chocolate mousse, a disk of coffee crème brûlée, a crunchy layer of walnut/almond nougatine, more mousse, another layer of biscuit and finally more mousse.

Once decircled, we sprayed the entremets with couverture/cocoa butter from an airbrush to give a velvet finish. The secret to the velvet finish is to spray onto a frozen surface -- so the entremets had been in the blast freezer to chill them right down.




We used the puff pastry I've been banging on about to produce a couple of rather strange savoury dishes (not yet cooked). Here's a quick vid showing 500g inverted puff pastry. The beginning shows the beurre manié coming together as described in the puff pastry post, then you see the turns. Each time a slide pops up is rest time in the fridge. You can see the prod-marks which are a reminder of how many turns have been given.


NB Just noticed the contrast is a spot dodge and the last slide too short. Bad luck.

Wednesday, 22 April 2009

Nothing like a French tart

Despite hopes and expectations, the puff pastry was not used today so we'll have to hold out for tomorrow.

We did, however, make a chocolate and coffee entremets which I shall snap and explain once we have done the decor. We also lined a few quiche rings.

This was the only thing we finished:


Something ghastly has happened to my camera. Absolutely jiggered. Despite sitting comfortably in its draw all day, the rocker switch suddenly stopped working. It'll still take snaps but I cannot scroll through the ones taken, turn off the flash or select special modes. It didn't get banged at all so I really can't work it out. Bloody annoying.

Tuesday, 21 April 2009

Another day at the office

We reeled out some brioche today -- been a while. Probably not worth taking a photo, though.

We also prepared some inverted pp for tomorrow. I tried surreptitiously to take photos at every step of the process. When I've done the final turn tomorrow, I'll upload the whole lot for anyone interested in seeing.

And that was all, a rather quiet day.

I got home and cooked a duck breast with a honey, ginger and orange sauce. As a reward for an honest day's work, I bought this cracking bottle of wine from the funny grocer's. Had to use it in the sauce...

Monday, 20 April 2009

More catch up

No practical, as usual on Monday.

Thrilled that my sister got engaged today after her boyfriend proposed on the top of Mont Blanc. That helped me get through double food science. I wonder if they'll want a wedding cake.

I've added 6 new posts from Easter weekend including snaps of Berlin: